Theo Minges Muskateller Kabinett Trocken

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With a blatant expression of its grape that includes sage, boxwood, pine needles, and grapefruit zest, as well as with brightness and cut that practically slash their way across your palate, in a cat fight Minges’ 2009 Muskateller Kabinett trocken would probably get the better of even the most hard-bitten Sauvignon. This analytically ultra-dry Muscat from the Flemlinger Zechpeter – it fermented spontaneously down to 0.7 gram residual sugar! – should prove an audacious but not unwelcome dinner guest over the next several years. “You have to see that the yeasts feel at home if you want them to work,” remarks Minges, criticizing those who clarify their musts, but adds that “I had doubts that spontaneous fermentation would take a wine to this point or about how it would taste.” Despite a certain severity, I agree with him that this Muscat seems quite self-sufficient. Despite picking into November, Theo Minges was one of those Sudpfalzer who had no trouble retaining acidity in 2009. Indeed, some of his dry offerings practically left me wanting to don sunglasses during our tasting session. As has become usual at this address, the collection is enormously diverse (and I do not usually taste nearly all of its non-Riesling members). “There are a lot of growers,” jokes Minges, “who have an enormous range of wines because they don’t sell well, so the grower keeps trying something new. I go out to the vineyard, get inspired, have a vision, and then I feel compelled to carry it out. And this repeats itself however many times …Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300