Minges’ 2009 Gewurztraminer Spatlese trocken Edition Rosenduft is strikingly scented with rose petal, celery root, caraway, and sea breeze, offering an even stronger sense of maritime minerality and suggestions of kelp on the palate. There is both an underlying firmness and a refreshment here that one seldom encounters in Gewurztraminer, and that I least expected from the present vintage or from a wine of well over 14% alcohol. This ought to prove extremely versatile over the next several years, and perhaps even merit more extended maturation, though one would have to monitor it later to assess such potential. Despite picking into November, Theo Minges was one of those Sudpfalzer who had no trouble retaining acidity in 2009. Indeed, some of his dry offerings practically left me wanting to don sunglasses during our tasting session. As has become usual at this address, the collection is enormously diverse (and I do not usually taste nearly all of its non-Riesling members). “There are a lot of growers,” jokes Minges, “who have an enormous range of wines because they don’t sell well, so the grower keeps trying something new. I go out to the vineyard, get inspired, have a vision, and then I feel compelled to carry it out. And this repeats itself however many times …Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300