Weingut Theo Minges Edition Rosenduft Gewurztraminer Spatlese Trocken, Pfalz, Germany

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Whereas Minges’ so-called “edition rose perfume” turned out subtly sweet in 2008, his 2009 Gewurztraminer Spatlese Edition Rosenduft is overtly, perhaps even overly sweet, while one has the alternative of a more intriguing trocken version (on which see my note). Mint, celery root, and rose petal abound, and like its dry, high-alcohol counterpart this preserves a welcome sense of primary juiciness that can’t be taken for granted with Gewurztraminer. Cinnamon, mint, and clove add attractive counterpoint to a nearly confectionary finish. Those with a sweet tooth can unconditionally enjoy this over the next several years, but while I suspect it will remain fresh for at least a decade, this will not be sufficient time to make significant inroads into such a strong sense of sweetness. Despite picking into November, Theo Minges was one of those Sudpfalzer who had no trouble retaining acidity in 2009. Indeed, some of his dry offerings practically left me wanting to don sunglasses during our tasting session. As has become usual at this address, the collection is enormously diverse (and I do not usually taste nearly all of its non-Riesling members). “There are a lot of growers,” jokes Minges, “who have an enormous range of wines because they don’t sell well, so the grower keeps trying something new. I go out to the vineyard, get inspired, have a vision, and then I feel compelled to carry it out. And this repeats itself however many times …Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Minges’ 2008 Gewurztraminer Spatlese Edition Rosenduft is far from legally trocken, yet its 25 grams of residual sugar seem to have been swallowed up by some magic and the wine comes off as only very subtly sweet, certainly drier than 90% of today’s Alsace Gewurztraminer. (Admittedly, Gewurztraminer – at least in the land of the Umlaut – kept higher than usual acidity this year; and then there are this vintage’s routinely high levels of dry extract which may cancel sweetness.) In any event, for the vast majority of my audience who don’t give a rose’s aphid whether or not the wine is legally this or that, here’s how it smells and tastes: loaded with the rose petals promised in its name, along with cinnamon, caraway, bacon fat, and peppermint; subtly creamy yet refreshing, with undertones of rich meat stock; long, buoyant, evocative, and possessed of sheer refreshment rare in wines from this grape. It will prove fantastically versatile over at least the next 5-6 years. Many of this year’s Minges wines were allowed to ferment spontaneously. “It stopped fermenting where it wanted to,” remarked Theo Minges, about one of several wines that did not go dry as they probably would have with cultured yeasts, adding that he’s being influenced now by the success of his exercise in wine-making passivity known as the “Froschkonig” (for more about which consult my review of that wine in issue 185). Regina Minges was keen to point out that the relatively low alcohol and delicate refreshment achieved in particular at the lower end of the price scale reflects an early November harvest.Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The Minges 2007 Gewurztraminer Spatlese Edition Rosenduft smells of honeysuckle, Peace Roses, and brown spices; caresses the palate with creamy liquid floral perfume; and introduces a welcome fresh musk melon and quince sappiness that helps the overtly sweet mint candy, caramel, and rose water finish remain not just long but also refreshing. This generous Gewurztraminer should be worth following for at least a dozen years. For the most part, Theo Minges achieved admirable results in 2007, a vintage he saw as playing into his hand by promoting inherent clarity, nuance, and “energy, so that all you had to do in the cellar was direct it.”Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Minges’ 2006 Gewurztraminer Spatlese Edition Rosenduft certainly lives up to the nickname he has long used for this bottling, with as intense a “scent of roses” as I can recall in any wine from this grape. Flatteringly creamy in texture; quite sweet, but with the sweetness supporting the wine’s perfume and honeyed richness; this elegant (10.5% alcohol) expression of Gewurztraminer finishes with brown spice and mint accents. Theo Minges certainly proved his viticultural mastery this year, because you would never guess you were tasting wines from such a challenging vintage. “Yes,” he says, “we began picking really rapidly at first. But after a while, once we saw that things had stabilized in the vineyard, we could adopt a completely normal pace.”Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300