A 2004 Gleisweiler Holle Riesling Spatlese trocken A.P. #15 comes off as paradoxically lighter and brighter today than the corresponding Kabinett. It is also better. Aromas of apple, lemon and toasted pumpkin seeds usher in a lively, swinging (“Schwungvoll”) palate where fruit acids, pungent citrus zest and smoke, plus roasted, smoky low notes all engage in a merry dance. A suggestion of creaminess and a sedate set of low tones in the finish lend a sense of richness to the proceedings. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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