A Minges 2007 Grauer Burgunder Eiswein is momentarily odd in the nose, with hints of smoked or brined fish as well as musky animal notes, but tropical fruits and honey follow here, and on the palate as well, met by a slightly detached but no doubt ultimately welcome lemony acidity. Luscious grapefruit coated with honey, and tinged with mint, soursop, and brown spices informs a long if slightly sweet-sour finish. This should be fascinating to follow and I could easily imagine it holding out for a quarter century, but I would want to check it again in the next year or two. For the most part, Theo Minges achieved admirable results in 2007, a vintage he saw as playing into his hand by promoting inherent clarity, nuance, and “energy, so that all you had to do in the cellar was direct it.”Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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