Weingut Theo Minges Gleisweiler Holle Riesling Kabinett, Pfalz, Germany

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Scents of honeysuckle, basswood, fennel pollen, and mint fetchingly mark the nose of Minges’ 2009 Gleisweiler Holle Riesling Kabinett, setting the stage for a coolly restrained but at the same time brightly refreshing palate performance. Persistent inner-mouth florality is complimented by the wine’s prominent sweetness – in turn offset by bitter hints of citrus rind and invigorating salinity – and it finishes with a delightful sense of lift. This ought to be worth following for at least the better part of a decade. Despite picking into November, Theo Minges was one of those Sudpfalzer who had no trouble retaining acidity in 2009. Indeed, some of his dry offerings practically left me wanting to don sunglasses during our tasting session. As has become usual at this address, the collection is enormously diverse (and I do not usually taste nearly all of its non-Riesling members). “There are a lot of growers,” jokes Minges, “who have an enormous range of wines because they don’t sell well, so the grower keeps trying something new. I go out to the vineyard, get inspired, have a vision, and then I feel compelled to carry it out. And this repeats itself however many times …Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Lime, honeydew melon, and apricot are the rather vintage-typical key notes of Minges’ 2008 Gleisweiler Holle Riesling Kabinett, whose lush, waxy texture and luscious fruit is underscored by judicious residual sugar, while the tartness of lime and apricot skin and bitterness of apricot kernel supply counterpoint and add to the invigoration of the finish. This should serve well for at least 8-10 years. Many of this year’s Minges wines were allowed to ferment spontaneously. “It stopped fermenting where it wanted to,” remarked Theo Minges, about one of several wines that did not go dry as they probably would have with cultured yeasts, adding that he’s being influenced now by the success of his exercise in wine-making passivity known as the “Froschkonig” (for more about which consult my review of that wine in issue 185). Regina Minges was keen to point out that the relatively low alcohol and delicate refreshment achieved in particular at the lower end of the price scale reflects an early November harvest.Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300