Minges’ 2006 Gleisweiler Holle Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule (there is no “regular” Auslese this vintage) features brown-spiced apple and peach, caramel and honey, with hints of roasted chestnut and white raisin. Reveling in ripeness and noble rot, creamy in texture, yet with elegance and lift, this finishes with superb length and refinement. It should cellar well for two decades. Theo Minges certainly proved his viticultural mastery this year, because you would never guess you were tasting wines from such a challenging vintage. “Yes,” he says, “we began picking really rapidly at first. But after a while, once we saw that things had stabilized in the vineyard, we could adopt a completely normal pace.”Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300