Imposing concentration of purple plum preserves, candied mandarin, lime, and pineapple, as well as honey mark both the nose and palate of Minges’ 2007 Gleisweiler Holle Riesling Beerenauslese. As with this year’s Rieslaner Auslese, there is a syrupy tendency here, but the wine pulls back from becoming completely candied thanks to an uncanny sense of lift and to just enough fresh sap and citricity maintaining liveliness in a finish that is tinged with clove, cinnamon, mint, and white pepper. Here, too, we have a candidate for a quarter century or more in the bottle, and it would at any rate take many years to properly assess how it is dealing with its sheer sweetness. For now though, it would certainly stand up to a lot of classic sweet citrus desserts in a way that few (often misleadingly called) “dessert wines” can.For the most part, Theo Minges achieved admirable results in 2007, a vintage he saw as playing into his hand by promoting inherent clarity, nuance, and “energy, so that all you had to do in the cellar was direct it.”Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300