The fruit for his 2006 Gleisweiler Holle Riesling Spatlese A.P. #21, Minges reports, was very ripe, but largely golden, with just a few bunches shading into purple or brown. Purple plum, ginger, caramel, honey, and candied lemon peel – along with the suggestions of floral perfume (perhaps,peony) shared by so many wines in this collection – are the dominate themes. Polished, glycerin-rich, less-enriched, and for all of its generous ripeness possessed of energy, lift, and intriguing suggestions of minerality, this puts its sweetness up front to reinforce the ripeness, but finishes with remarkable restrained sweetness considering its high residual sugar. An outstanding value, it should develop nicely for at least 12-14 years. Theo Minges certainly proved his viticultural mastery this year, because you would never guess you were tasting wines from such a challenging vintage. “Yes,” he says, “we began picking really rapidly at first. But after a while, once we saw that things had stabilized in the vineyard, we could adopt a completely normal pace.”Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300