Theo Minges Riesling Spatlese Trocken Gleisweiler Holle

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：1903

Minges’ 2009 Gleisweiler Holle Riesling Spatlese trocken originates in grapes only marginally riper than those that informed the corresponding Kabinett, but this wine displays a bit more substantiality, which its author traces to the heavier soils in the parcels where it grew as much as to its marginally higher alcohol. A photo Minges took of the fruit shows speckled, green-gold, glowing little Riesling bulbs. Lemon and kumquat on the nose display an almost eye-watering intensity; then are laced with salt and crushed stone on a palate palpably dense as well as bright, finishing tenaciously with both invigoration and a certain severity. This should perform well for 3-5 years and I would not be surprised to see more depth of flavor and sense or richness emerging in the process. Despite picking into November, Theo Minges was one of those Sudpfalzer who had no trouble retaining acidity in 2009. Indeed, some of his dry offerings practically left me wanting to don sunglasses during our tasting session. As has become usual at this address, the collection is enormously diverse (and I do not usually taste nearly all of its non-Riesling members). “There are a lot of growers,” jokes Minges, “who have an enormous range of wines because they don’t sell well, so the grower keeps trying something new. I go out to the vineyard, get inspired, have a vision, and then I feel compelled to carry it out. And this repeats itself however many times …Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Minges’ 2008 Gleisweiler Holle Riesling Spatlese trocken represents less of a striking contrast to its Kabinett counterpart than was the case with their respective 2007 renditions. (A half percent of alcohol separates them, incidentally.) Lemon, salt, mint, and oregano inform a bracing nose and palate, the latter boasting a bit more stuffing and a subtly waxy texture. This lingers with refinement and refreshment, white peach and white currant welling up as it opens to the air. I would expect it to remain a delight over the next 5-6 years. Many of this year’s Minges wines were allowed to ferment spontaneously. “It stopped fermenting where it wanted to,” remarked Theo Minges, about one of several wines that did not go dry as they probably would have with cultured yeasts, adding that he’s being influenced now by the success of his exercise in wine-making passivity known as the “Froschkonig” (for more about which consult my review of that wine in issue 185). Regina Minges was keen to point out that the relatively low alcohol and delicate refreshment achieved in particular at the lower end of the price scale reflects an early November harvest.Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Speaking of variety in body and style, Minges’ 2007 Gleisweiler Holle Riesling Spatlese trocken represents a dramatic contrast with its Kabinett counterpart, not just on account of 13.5% alcohol that shows in body and a hint of warmth, but also in a somewhat somber personality with fruit pits and a note of ash mingled with sappy, peach and lemon. Minges says this fermented spontaneously, yet went below one gram residual sugar, which certainly explains something of its personality. I would plan to employ it cautiously over the next 3-4 years. For the most part, Theo Minges achieved admirable results in 2007, a vintage he saw as playing into his hand by promoting inherent clarity, nuance, and “energy, so that all you had to do in the cellar was direct it.”Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Minges’ 2006 Gleisweiler Holle Riesling Spatlese trocken mingles peach, peach kernel, brown spices, and toasted almond. Suggestions of wood smoke and chalk add interest and this palpably extract-rich Riesling (weighing in at 12.5% alcohol) still comes off light on its feet and impressively long. Theo Minges certainly proved his viticultural mastery this year, because you would never guess you were tasting wines from such a challenging vintage. “Yes,” he says, “we began picking really rapidly at first. But after a while, once we saw that things had stabilized in the vineyard, we could adopt a completely normal pace.”Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300