Toni Jost Bacharacher Riesling Kabinett Feinherb

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Incorporating inter alia newly-yielding vineyards above the Hahn, and from early-picked fruit, the Jost 2010 Bacharacher Riesling Kabinett feinherb brims with finely-scented fresh pear and apple dusted with cardamom and crushed stone. The Josts normally reserve “feinherb” for designating wines barely above the legal limit of sugar for trocken, but here the level is higher and seems to help reinforce the fruit without engendering any impression of sweetness per se. A hint of apple pip along with alkaline and wet stone undertones, complement the generously juicy, transparent finishing fruit of an adeptly-balanced Riesling apt to prove deliciously versatile over the next 8-10 years. Jost’s musts - largely from late October picking - were all double-salt de-acidified, and certain lots, including the Grosse Gewachse from both Mittelrhein and Rheingau, also underwent malo-lactic transformation in the course of unusually long fermentations. “We should culture and sell whatever powerful bacteria managed this,” notes Cecilia Jost jocularly, considering the low-pH medium in which they worked even after double-salt treatment. High acids also prompted some experiments in extended lees exposure and skin contact, though I fancy the latter might in some instances have accentuated a tendency toward bitterness. (Cecelia Jost had acquired some experience with all of these approaches from her time in New Zealand.) Residual sugar was left higher, and alcohol lower than usual in the majority of these 2010s.Bill Mayer Age of Riesling Selections, imported by Valley View Wine Sales, Glen Ellen, CA; tel. (510) 549 2444; also imported by Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (877) 389-9463

From an upper portion in the Kloster-Furstental the Jost 2009 Bacharacher Riesling Kabinett feinherb is perfectly dry-tasting at a mere 13 grams of residual sugar, yet boasts enticing delicacy at only 10.5% alcohol and a lip-smacking profusion of shimmeringly interactive grapefruit, pineapple, nut oils, salt, and stone. This impeccably-balanced, luscious, refreshing ambassador for Mittelrhein slate and Riesling should continue to represent outstanding value over at least the next 7-9 years. For an account of some recent developments at this estate, please consult my report in issue 187. Interestingly, it was the wines from their Rheingau vineyards that suffered especially from sheer ripeness and consequent high alcohol; whereas the Josts’ best 2009s from their near-monopole Hahn escaped such difficulties and performed well indeed. Incidentally, every wine of the Josts’ save for their Grosse Gewachse – and that includes their two Pinots (which I don’t usually taste) – is now closed with screwcap, and they are among several growers I spoke with who intend to bottle their Grosse Gewachse with screwcap as well, as soon as the relevant bottles are available with the embossed Arabic numeral “1” and stylized grape cluster that identifies this category.Bill Mayer Age of Riesling Selections, Imported by Valley View Wine Sales, Glen Ellen, CA; tel. (510) 549 2444; also imported by Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463