Oregon has always made great Rieslings, yet few of the state’s winemakers have ever made it a priority. Trisaetum’s James Frey is out to change that, and is off to a great start. This 2008, like its predecessor, captures the complexity, grace and compelling charm of the grape. Dense and still light, it brings honey, tea, lemon, nectarine, jasmine, lime, caramel and sweet nut flavors together, a riotous jumble that is beyond delicious. But wait; it will improve with cellaring. ——P.G.(6/1/2010)—— 94