Va Piano Cabernet Sauvignon Estate

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A Va Piano 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate features creme de cassis mingled with chocolate and brown spices. Despite a slightly awkwardly detached tart edge and a bit of drying from wood tannin (40% of the barrels were new), this wine ultimately projects an appealingly sweet, sappy, and sustained impression and ought to drink well for at least another couple of years. Owner-winemaker Justin Wylie styles Va Piano “Tuscan-themed,” though the only two wines I had a chance to sample did not recognizably fit that description. The winery opened in 2005, but the eponymous family estate vineyard in Walla Walla – into which a number of wineries are very successfully tapping – was planted in 1999. Tel. (509) 529-0900

The 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate is sourced from a specific parcel, Block 1. It is a definite step up from the non-estate bottling revealing denser fruit, more complexity on the palate, and outstanding volume and length. This tasty offering will benefit from 5-6 years of cellaring and should easily see its 20th birthday. Owner/winemaker Justin Wylie’s story, while not quite Horatio Alger-like, involves purchasing a wheat field and within a decade building it into a thriving vineyard and winery. Va Piano Vineyards makes wine from both estate-grown and purchased fruit. Tel. (509) 529-0900; www.vapianovineyards.com