Fattoria Viticcio Lucius, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG, Italy

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The 2007 Chianti Classico Riserva Lucius is the estate’s more modern Chianti and includes a percentage of Cabernet Sauvingon and Merlot, in addition to being aged in French oak. Those important considerations notwithstanding, it is the finesse of the tannins that elevates the Lucious in 2007. Layers of dark fruit emerge from a firm yet silky frame endowed with a gorgeous combination of power and elegance. The international varieties speak with a distinctive voice, but all of the elements come together with tons of class. Ripe wild cherries, rosemary, minerals and French oak flow effortlessly through to the long, enveloping finish. This is a gem from Viticcio. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2027. Viticcio is an excellent source for well-priced wines from the heart of Chianti Classico.Importer: Massanois Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 470-6769

The estate’s 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Lucius adds Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to the Sangiovese. This French oak-aged Chianti offers excellent length and minerality, with a profile that tends towards an expression of dark fruit. Today the tannins clamp down on the finish, but there seems to be a nice sense of inner sweetness that needs a little bottle age to emerge. The Lucius is the most internationally-styled of the house’s Chiantis. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. Importer: Sherbrooke Cellars, White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 722-9100

The estate’s 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Lucius is a barrique-aged blend of Sangiovese with Cabernet and Merlot. Medium- to full-bodied, it offers gorgeous dark fruit with excellent depth as well as length on the palate and fine overall balance in a richer style than the normal bottling. It should drink well to age 15. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2019. Importer: Sherbrooke Cellars, White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 722-9100