The Knyphausen 2009 Erbacher Hohenrain Riesling could not qualify as an Erstes Gewachs because of the youthful age of the estates vines in this site, and while it is legally trocken, that information is omitted from the label, both in order to more closely follow the pattern of Erstes Gewachs labeling and allow with a single label for there being more than 9 grams residual sugar in some future renditions. (The term -Erste Lage- appears on this and certain other Knyphausen labels to indicate that the site in question is classified by the VDP in their top tier.) High-toned distilled pit fruit esters migrate to the palate with considerable tactile impingement of fruit skin and pit. Gerko zu Knyphausen has acquired a new partner (holding a 50% share) who will assist in management and marketing. When this new investment funds director Wolfgang Frank informed me - employing the allegedly Burgundian classificatory language now so fashionable among German vintners - that the estates portfolio had been significantly restructured, I was to say the least skeptical. Naturally, though, of paramount importance is the quality of whatever is put into bottle (and the Knyphausen estate had registered a few disappointing recent collections). What I found when I visited in November was Knyphausen and long-time vineyard and cellar manager Rainer Ruttiger very much at their posts; a revision of the wine line-up that incorporated rather bold and in my opinion largely laudable stylistic innovations; and the most exciting collection I can recall at this address in nearly two decades. Its obvious from my conversations with the team that renewed rigor in vine management has been contributory to improved quality, and whatever combination of renewed inspiration and fiscal freedom has further impacted this years performance, heres hoping that it continues!Importer: P. J. Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK; tel. (918) 622-0424