Baron Zu Knyphausen Spatburgunder Trocken

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Tart-edged cherry tinged with peaty smokiness, cherry pit piquancy, and bittersweet toastiness of walnut and almond oil make for a succulent and attractive Knyphausen 2009 Spatburgunder trocken that ought to perform well for several years. The tank-elevage here was supplemented by a few barriques, but a dedicated (so-called -Breborn-) bottling from a single new barrique was stripped of textural appeal, fruit, and charm. Gerko zu Knyphausen has acquired a new partner (holding a 50% share) who will assist in management and marketing. When this new investment funds director Wolfgang Frank informed me - employing the allegedly Burgundian classificatory language now so fashionable among German vintners - that the estates portfolio had been significantly restructured, I was to say the least skeptical. Naturally, though, of paramount importance is the quality of whatever is put into bottle (and the Knyphausen estate had registered a few disappointing recent collections). What I found when I visited in November was Knyphausen and long-time vineyard and cellar manager Rainer Ruttiger very much at their posts; a revision of the wine line-up that incorporated rather bold and in my opinion largely laudable stylistic innovations; and the most exciting collection I can recall at this address in nearly two decades. Its obvious from my conversations with the team that renewed rigor in vine management has been contributory to improved quality, and whatever combination of renewed inspiration and fiscal freedom has further impacted this years performance, heres hoping that it continues!Importer: P. J. Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK; tel. (918) 622-0424