Baron Zu Knyphausen Hattenheimer Riesling Kabinett

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：1900

Originating in the Rheingarten vineyard (which is curiously divided between the shoreline and an island, though these grapes grow on the former) Knyphausens 2009 Hattenheimer Riesling Kabinett offers delicious scents and juicy persistence of fresh pear and mirabelle mingled with nut oils and smoky black tea. Saline, sweet suggestions of lobster shell-reduction add mouthwatering savor to a satisfyingly persistent finish and 22 grams of residual sugar here (a level, however judicious and appropriate it is, which one seldom encounters in contemporary Rhine Riesling) remains supportive but unobtrusive. I would expect this to perform well for the better part of a decade. (A much sweeter generic Knyphausen Kabinett dubbed -Baron K,- incidentally, was clearly not fashioned from material of a quality comparable to the rest of the present collection.) Gerko zu Knyphausen has acquired a new partner (holding a 50% share) who will assist in management and marketing. When this new investment funds director Wolfgang Frank informed me - employing the allegedly Burgundian classificatory language now so fashionable among German vintners - that the estates portfolio had been significantly restructured, I was to say the least skeptical. Naturally, though, of paramount importance is the quality of whatever is put into bottle (and the Knyphausen estate had registered a few disappointing recent collections). What I found when I visited in November was Knyphausen and long-time vineyard and cellar manager Rainer Ruttiger very much at their posts; a revision of the wine line-up that incorporated rather bold and in my opinion largely laudable stylistic innovations; and the most exciting collection I can recall at this address in nearly two decades. Its obvious from my conversations with the team that renewed rigor in vine management has been contributory to improved quality, and whatever combination of renewed inspiration and fiscal freedom has further impacted this years performance, heres hoping that it continues!Importer: P. J. Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK; tel. (918) 622-0424