Clemens Busch Pundericher Marienberg Riesling Spatlese Trocken A P #21

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Busch’s 2005 Pundericher Marienberg Riesling Spatlese trocken A.P. #21 is one of several dry Spatlesen he bottled from this vintage, in this instance from ripe fruit in several of the estate’s oldest – in part ungrafted – vineyards, as much of the botrytis as possible having been separated out for use in sweet wine. Due to extreme ripeness and sensitivity of his grape skins in general, but particularly in 2005, Busch performs a long, very gentle pressing. Rich and nutty, featuring aromas and flavors of subtly caramelized pit fruits, a satisfyingly satiny texture, and a brothy expression of minerality, this makes a virtue out of the extra measure of richness and spice engendered by whatever botrytis remained in the picking, and is free of heat or bitterness. For its breadth and a texture more familiar from white Burgundy, this will not fit many readers’ model of modern Mosel Riesling, but they should permit themselves the live experience before passing judgment. A “three-star” Spatlese was dramatically low-toned, creamy, and botrytis-inflected, but not nearly as complete or satisfying as this A.P. #21.Also recommended: 2005 Pundericher Marienberg Riesling Spatlese trocken*** ($39.00; 86).Clemens Busch farms the steep slopes of the once-famous Pundericher Marienberg on the Lower Mosel entirely organically, which makes him unique in the region and a source of wonder for his fellow vintners. Most of his top wines are labeled with their old pre-1971 site names. (Increasingly many growers are managing to get away with this.) Best-known inside Germany for his dry wines, he has nevertheless crafted excellent nobly sweet Rieslings in the present as well. The style tends toward creaminess of texture and ripe, relatively low acidity, particularly at the dry end of the spectrum.Importer: Mosel Wine Merchant, Manhasset, NY and Trier, Germany; tel. +49 (0) 651 14551 38