For the extraordinary diversity of great wines that are produced, Muller-Catoir is Germany's greatest estate. Who else achieves such brilliance with not only Riesling, but with Muskateller, Scheurebe, and Rieslaner? Muller-Catoir's 1994s are brilliant wines, as well as the most backward I have tasted from this estate. Their extremely high extract bodes well for future development, as do their magnificently high yet ripe acids. Muller-Catoir's dry 1994 Haardter Burgergarten Muskateller Kabinett displays plenty of up-front fruit, terrific extract, and a closed, mineral/pineapple-like character that is hard to completely grasp. My score was kept down by some pungent herbal notes in this otherwise impressive wine. I would not be surprised to see the score rise once the wine has had more time in the bottle. I am perplexed by the vegetal components intertwined with those of wonderful ripeness and intensity. Importer: a Terry Theise Selection, Milton S. Kronheim & Co., Jessup, MD; tel. (410) 724-3369
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