Daniel Vollenweider Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Spatlese Padauer A P #6

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Vollenweider’s 2004 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Spatlese A.P. #6 “Padauer” (which parcel designation will appear on the neck label) was the only one of his 2004 Spatlesen to be picked before the first of November. It exhibits a slight veil of yeastiness (although it was cultured, not spontaneous), but then displays ripe apple and white peach with suggestions of honey and white raisin. The palate impression is creamy and rich, and an incredible near-hundred grams of residual sugar manage to be tamed by nine grams of acid and a lot of sheer extract. This parcel, says Vollenweider, simply displayed very advanced phenolic maturity despite its acid retention. There is an impression of compressed fruit layers – white peach, purple plum, and apple – laced with juicy citrus and underlain by darker tones than in any of its predecessors today: toasted nuts, dried berries, and a hint of caramel. This offering has real depth to it as well as formidable length and – while Vollenweider has had insufficient time to establish any track record – I would not be at all surprised if this proved to have three decades of fascinating and satisfying evolution ahead of it. Importers: Vineyard Research, Inc., Wellesley, MA; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR; Old Vine Imports, San Francisco, CA.