Representing a meticulous picking-out of the most perfectly desiccated berries over a wide range of parcels and the duration of this year’s harvest, his 2010 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Beerenauslese might be the exception that proves Willi Schaefer’s oft-repeated rule that one needs enough juicy gold-green berries to guarantee corresponding sap and dynamism in the resulting B.A., because here – as with the auction Auslese A.P. #4 – there is an almost too-severe sense of dried fruits and tart acids. Tingling impingement of lemon, lime and white currant in which are macerated dried apricot and peach honey are further contrasted with white raisin and honey. Sixteen grams of acidity power a rapier thrust of a finish from which the impression of botrytis ennoblement completely flees. “It never occurred to us to leave anything hanging this year for Eiswein,” quips Christoph Schaefer, “because we had our Eiswein here already.” You can say that again! Importer Terry Theise noted that this wine displayed unusual serenity very early on. Perhaps the stillness was foreboding. And perhaps with time – heaven knows, one could safely plan on a half century life span from this elixir – a higher harmony will be established in this audacious concentrate. I have to wonder about it’s future at the same time that I recognize it as a sort of natural wonder.
“You had to keep delaying harvest,” says Christoph Schaefer, “but when it did come time, a significant share of the crop needed to be picked pretty quickly,” due to pressure from botrytis. Of course, when two experienced grower-owners have only ten – albeit extremely morsellated – acres to tend, 2010 challenges are a bit more manageable. “It was really important this year,” Schaefer junior continues, “to let the small amount of fruit that was still green hang, because such bunches were retarded in ripeness; high in malic acid; and would have been very noticeable in a blend.” “Even if you have only 10 or 20% of those sour grapes in the picking, you’ll never get that sour note out of the wine” adds Willi Schaefer, who is a champion in other contexts of including fresh green-gold grapes in one’s material, but suspects that failure to recognize the aforementioned danger was the cause of many a disappointing 2010. Notwithstanding – but also not contradicting – that opinion, as I noted in my introduction to this vintage, many Mosel growers observed not only higher concentration of total acidity in precisely their botrytized fruit but also the locking-in of more malic, and as my tasting notes demonstrate, the acids in some of the Schaefers’ most botrytized batches bordered on the obstreperous. “Only after fermentation – in which a significant (but variable) amount of acidity is lost anyway – can you really tell the structure of your wine,” insists Christoph Schaefer, “so what de-acidifying we did – largely in Q.b.A. and Kabinett – was as a correction to wine.” Willi Schaefer is keen to remind us that what tastes balanced is partly an imponderable function of terroir. “You’ll see that ten grams of finished acidity tastes well-integrated and -buffered in wine from one parcel, while a wine with approximately the same gross analysis from another parcel tastes sour. When I see bunches looking and tasting a certain way, and I know where they’re growing, then the analysis doesn’t interest me; I know the wine is going to turn out right.” You can taste that sort of confidence in a 2010 performance from Schaefers of unusual qualitative consistency, even if there will be differences of opinion as to the potential greatness of certain wines that are extreme in ways which would only in this vintage fail to elicit a gasp. “You can’t really say that earlier or later pickings were more successful this year,” adds Schaefer senior, but as at so many top Middle Mosel addresses this year, Spatlese and Auslese predominate, an outcome of which nobody even dreamt at the end of 2010’s rainy September. Only the heaviest le
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