A 2008 Beaune Champs Pimonts – the last-harvested, most stringently triaged, and lowest-yielding of the vintage’s Besson wines – offers ripe plum with rich, salted beef and mushroom stock. As it takes on air it takes on an increasing aura of plum distillate and brown spices. A saliva-inducing finish displays firm but well-integrated tannins and subtly folds into the fruit and stock notes of chalk, salt, plum pit, and forest floor. This should be worth following for at least 6-8 years. The Bessons have been a source of rare red and white Burgundy value for more than a decade, and have often demonstrated their ability to rise to the challenge of a vintage (although they did not succeed in 2007 to the extent that they did in 2008, or even 2004). Their use of 30-60% new wood seldom results in any signs of overt oakiness, in part because some wines are raised in a combination of barrique and 500-liter tonneaux. But like other growers utilizing larger barrel sizes in very cold cellars, the CO2 was very slow to dissipate from their 2008s after malo, and as a result these wines had not yet been bottled (though they had long since been racked to tank) when I tasted them in March.A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93