The 2009 VIOGNIER, from an altitude of 900 meters, was hard edged and disjointed when I saw it first, without delivering much in the way of either fruit or aromatics, although there were enough hints that it would become interesting. Since I counseled that it needed a little time to unwind in its youthful state, I thought it might be interesting to take another look at this, another six months or so down the road. It has certainly rewarded that time in the cellar and it is quite lovely now, about as good as it is going to get. Well integrated, with all of its parts in balance, it seems bright and sunny, although without any obvious bursts of acidity. It has good purity of fruit, just a hint of herbaceousness and nice aromatics. It is quite charming, with a feeling of solidity. This runs around 77 shekels in Israel. Drink now-2012. Importer: Royal Wine Corp, Bayonne, N.J.; tel: (718) 534-0118
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