Normally a 5-year-old Albarino would have lost freshness and vibrancy. However, the 2005 Albarino Tras da Vina appears to be the exception. It spent 30 months in stainless steel aging on its lees. Light gold-colored, it sports an enticing perfume of lemon meringue, spring flowers, mineral, and nutmeg. Mouth-filling, fresh, lively, and concentrated, this savory offering is impeccably balanced and lengthy. It should offer pleasure for another 3-4 years.Importer: Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY; www.domaineselect.com