Loewen’s dry-finishing 2008 Riesling Quant (named for a local expression denoting satisfaction) features grapefruit, yellow plum, and kumquat in a pungent, bright aromatic and palate amalgam; a satiny feel; practically sizzling citrus zest and wood smoke impingement; but also refreshing, succulent juiciness. This should prove worth working with over at least the next 3-4 years, but its pronouncedly bitter and pungent personality will call for careful pairing. Karl-Josef Loewen associates the measurably high dry extracts of his 2008s with their ability to buffer high acids but also to convey mineral characteristics. He was pleased to point out that not one of his dry wines reached 12% alcohol this vintage, and only partly on account of that vintage itself. Especially with his oldest vines, pruning for multiple short canes and de-leafing at critical junctures are among the techniques being employed to diminish the accretion of sugar and maximize flavor. Small berries and clusters are also critical, says Loewen, who does not believe in green harvesting. “The trick,” he opines, “is to make little wine from many bunches, rather than little wine from few bunches.”Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
粵公網安備 44030502006249號