Omen est nomen when it comes to Loewen’s 2005 Riesling “Quant” (referring to an expression in local dialect signifying one’s complete satisfaction). Lemon, kumquat, apple, and brine aromas are followed by a fine-grained, concentrated, citrus- and mineral-dominated palate, with eleven grams residual sugar supporting the fruit and keeping the wine on the harmonious side of austerity. A convincingly long, refreshing finish of citrus, mineral salts and wet stone invigorates and invites the next sip. Also recommended: 2005 Riesling Alte Reben ($ unknown; 84+?), 2005 Detzemer Maximiner Klosterlay Riesling “Christopher’s Wine” ($ unknown; 85+?), 2005 Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Beerenauslese (unavailable; 86).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300
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