The 2014 Branco is part of this issue's vertical. This is one that has gone slightly backwards. On release, it is was just glorious in its freshness, alive with personality and enlivening aromatics. With a little more time in the bottle, the lack of concentration is exposed a bit. True, that is a typical aspect of 2014--the whites are fresh, but they don't show the greatest concentration as a group. The green notes--very different than every other white here--still make this rather enticing, if atypical. Overall, this is still a lot of fun. Drink it on the younger side and you'll be happy. Freshness preserves, of course, so it may hold, but I doubt it has the mid-palate concentration to reward cellaring.
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