Weingut Pfeffingen Ungsteiner Herrenberg Scheurebe Spatlese, Pfalz, Germany

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Pink grapefruit, pineapple, and intense sage surge from the glass of Pfeffingen 2007 Ungsteiner Herrenberg Scheurebe Spatlese, which then gushes onto the palate, its strongly resinous pungency balancing its sweetness or vice-versa, and a juicy abundance of fruit seemingly adding honeydew melon to the mix. As in the corresponding Gewurztraminer, there is lightness and lift here, though in this case with more sheer intensity, especially in a finish of exuberant refreshment, as well as truly lip-smacking residues of citrus, salt, and herbal concentrate. Enjoy this over the next 10-12 years. In addition to those distinctive features of Jan Eymael’s 2007 collection mentioned in my individual tasting notes, he points out that as a group they are youthfully a bit reductive and tight, for which reason he presented to me bottles (save for those of the nobly sweet wines) that had first been given two hours in the refrigerator with a couple of inches of their contents removed.Imported by Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA 800 596 9463

Fans of this sometimes kinky grape variety will probably feel this rating is too low. This wine starts of with hints of Scheurebe’s wild side, offering up hints of something resembling Sauvignon Blanc, then adding almost tropical fruit and currant and pink grapefruit flavors tinged with just enough residual sugar for balance. A wild ride, but an enjoyable one.——J.C.(6/1/2009)—— 89