Harvested mid-October from botrytis-free fruit and at a surprisingly low 13.5% alcohol, the Hirtzberger 2007 Grauburgunder Smaragd Pluris smells of peach, wood smoke, and toasted almond; is rich and full yet surprisingly luscious and lively on the palate; and finishes with smoky pungency and a horseradish-like nip which (based on the vintner’s comments) I shall assume comes from something other than botrytis. Most of Hirtzberger’s 2007 vintage Gruner Veltliner reflect their late dates of harvest and the presence of botrytis (a certain amount of which he always welcomes) in rich, low tones.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700
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