Weingut Carl Loewen Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Auslese, Mosel, Germany

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Loewen’s 2005 Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Auslese Fass #19, A.P. #15 (I mention the cask number only because it appears more prominently on the label than the A.P. #) represents a pure botrytis selection. Smelling of caramelized and overripe peach, it comes onto the palate quite plush and oily, with caramelized peach, brown spices, orange rind, and honey. Despite its richness and plushness, this is a bit clearer in finish than the A.P. #14, but it is also a bit simpler. Both are imposing wines but I would be disinclined to speculate on how they might express their botrytis over time, and neither can hold a candle to this year’s Thornicher Ritsch Auslese. Given the rampant botrytis and rain of late autumn 2005, very few growers attempted to harvest Eiswein, and from what I tasted considerably fewer succeeded. Loewen – who is determined to make Eiswein from the Klostergarten every year – was one of those rare exceptions.Also recommended: 2005 Riesling Alte Reben ($ unknown; 84+?), 2005 Detzemer Maximiner Klosterlay Riesling “Christopher’s Wine” ($ unknown; 85+?), 2005 Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Beerenauslese (unavailable; 86).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300