From a block-harvested parcel, this with very old vines and picked nearly a month later than the “Rotlay”, comes the 2004 Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Auslese “Schmitt”. Red and yellow peaches at fresh, caramelized, jammed, and virtually distilled levels of ripeness and intensity assault the nose along with the Schlossberg-typical suggestion of an incipient forest fire. The layering of fruit and mineral lends itself to an almost (but not quite!) hectic interplay of flavors tart and sweet, animal, mineral and fruit. The finish invigorates with suggestions of citrus and pit fruit skin even as it glows with honey and peach jam and smolders, smokes, and spices as if powered by seismic slate tremors. Any of these top 2004 Selbach Auslesen will surely repay three decades of cellaring. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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