Weingut Kerpen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese, Mosel, Germany

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The 2005 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (around a hundred liters of it in all) was selected over many days’ pickings and then further selected, berry by berry, in the cellar. The high-toned aroma here represents a smelling-salt like concentration of pit fruit preserves, citrus, honey, spices, and mineral. Astonishingly viscous, creamy, and oily-rich on the palate, this strikingly greenish-gold elixir resembles quince preserves and lemon meringue in texture as well as its embryonic flavors. Vanilla, citrus zest, and brown spice accents add to the intensity of the wine and begin to add complexity in its finish. One can’t really speak of “refinement” here nor yet of the wine’s ultimate balance. This wild thing has to be cellared for at least two decades and can probably never be tamed, but even a few post-fermentative months of rest will, I predict, offer it an opportunity to display the seeds of future complexity. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300