August Kesseler Assmannshauser Hollenberg Spatburgunder Qba, Rheingau, Germany

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The 2005 Assmannshauser Hollenberg Spatburgunder trocken densely concentrates both black fruits and stony minerality. Smoky, leathery notes add significant complexity (though one does not even notice the oak) and while this wine too displays a silky texture, there is no question about the abundant and fine-grained tannins that underlie it, and will help support it for at least 8-10 year’s felicitous bottle evolution. Kesseler suffered a 50% loss in crop from his long-term average, but ruthless selectivity on top of his usual low yields paid dividends in quality albeit at the price of prominent sweetness. Kesseler attempted neither a Kabinett, nor (insisting that botrytis and alcohol would have been too evident) did he essay any dry wines from his estate holdings in Rudesheim. The 2005 vintage reds – bottled in mid-2007 – have fulfilled their excellent promise. Needless to say, from these steep stone sites, and cropped at the levels requisite for top quality, Kesseler Pinot Noirs do not come cheap. But they certainly invite comparison with red Burgundies selling for comparable prices. And while they are all very ripe, none of these 2005s betray their alcohol in bitterness or heat.Various importers including: Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA tel. 800 362 4420; Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland, OR; tel. (503) 236-9370