Weingut Kerpen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Beerenauslese, Mosel, Germany

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Picked out over most of his parcels and the duration of the harvest, Kerpen’s 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Beerenauslese offers pungent aromas and palate impingement of smoky black tea; candied orange and tangerine rind; sweat; and alkaline minerality. There is an almost metallic edge here, but at the same time suggestions of white raisin –along with an emerging hint of mushroom – point to a botrytis element that might in time reveal a gentler or more unctuous side. There is without doubt complexity and intrigue here, but no harmony, and the vivacity and invigoration are edgy. I’d want to revisit this in a year or two – it may even have improved short-term – and certainly in terms of sheer concentration and raw energy this high-acid B.A. appears capable of thriving for three decades. Martin Kerpen’s 2009 collection Rieslings possess uncommon brightness for their vintage, and he continues to excel across a blessedly broad stylistic range, from legally trocken through nobly sweet – and, more importantly, with plenty of successful stops in-between. It’s worth noting that Kerpen is especially keen on the quality of his nobly sweet 2009s – wines that are certainly close to off-the-charts on paper – although as readers can see, my praise for them is more selective.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300