Purple plum, grapefruit and pineapple inform the ester-rich aroma of Leitz’s 2006 Rudesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Alte Reben as well as its voluminous, opulently fruity, and amazingly creamy palate. Counterpoint is provided by juicy citricity, pungent smokiness, and suggestions of wet stone, and both the wine’s 15 grams residual sugar and 14% alcohol are perfectly integrated, so that one tastes an admittedly overwhelmingly rich and out-sized, but nevertheless well-balanced, dry-tasting wine. I suspect this will be worth following for at least 7-9 years.
Leitz began picking September 21st, so that his high-volume, off-dry export wines (as well as most of the precocious Kaisersteinfels) were harvested before the Great Rain, and the entire harvest was completed by October 18. The majority of the Rudesheimer Berg vineyards were picked at must weights higher even than those of 2003, but fortunately at significantly higher levels of acidity than in that year (or in 2005). Largely navigating the pitfalls of botrytis and high alcohol, Leitz rendered a remarkable collection of dry wines.
Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300
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