Since Aurelio Montes of Chile crossed the Andes three or four years ago to make Kaiken, the Ultra line—be it Malbec or Cabernet—has been a consistent performer. This vintage pours on the rich, extracted aromas of black fruit and cassis, and then follows that up with similar flavors. It’s full-bodied but not necessarily a heavy wine, with sweetness and chocolate but not much nuance or complexity. Drink now–2009.——M.S.(2/1/2008)—— 90