The Barthelmes’ 2007 Gewurztraminer Furstentum Vieilles Vignes is (as has frequently been the case with this bottling) a V.T. in all but name, certainly in terms of its sheer richness and its 40 grams of residual sugar, which as it happens are met by significantly lower acidity (due to malo-lactic conversion) than in other Mann Gewurztraminer bottlings of the vintage. Litchi, rose petal, caramelized peach, milk chocolate, tonka bean, mint, and brown spices contribute to the complexity of this creamy, voluminous beauty that buoyantly envelops the palate and clings like a silk gown. Expect 15-20 years of seduction. To say that Maurice and Jacky Barthelme are bullish on their 2007s would be an understatement, as they seem to think that this is their best collection going all the way back to the wonderful 1988s with which they debuted in the U.S. (and a number of which I am still enjoying). Since they have been among those Alsace vintners most concerned with restraining sugar accretion while promoting ripe flavors, it’s understandable that they view 2007 as having been especially welcome when compared with other very recent vintages. “In September there was just enough rain; in October no rain; November was wonderful,” comments Jacky Barthelme, “so, we had time to harvest and to select.” Barthelmes were also among those growers who sold off a portion of their 2006 crop in bulk and declassified portions into generic bottlings, but the resulting bottlings are among the finest of that vintage, for which the brothers in part – unsurprisingly – credit biodynamic preparations and fruit that could be picked ripe early. My laudatory reviews of the (for this estate typically) outstanding value Mann Auxerrois Vieilles Vignes and Pinot Blanc bottlings of vintage 2007 can be found in issue 178.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800
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