The 2005 Etna Rosso di Verzella (Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccino) is a mid-weight, ethereal red with pretty aromatics and a soft, delicate core of small red fruits, flowers and spices. The wine offers lovely balance and freshness in a feminine, weightless style. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2011. I can’t think of too many properties in Sicily, or Italy, for that matter, that turn out such a large number of outstanding wines. The family-run Benanti winery is located on the slopes of Mount Etna. These volcanic soils are the source for most of the grapes, although some of the Nero d’Avola comes from Pachino while the Zibibbo is grown on the island of Pantelleria. Readers should do whatever they can to taste these unique wines.Importer: JA-AR Imports, Ltd., Stellar Cellars, East Brunswick, NJ; tel. (732) 762-9524

Benanti’s Rosso di Verzella is an extremely elegant and well-evolved wine (80-20 Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio with 8 months of oak) that offers sophisticated aromas of resin, black stone, cherry and small berries. Made with fruit grown in volcanic soils on Mount Etna, the wine has grit and character with a long, drying finish.——M.L.(2/1/2009)—— 90