Both peat-like smokiness and alkaline mineral notes lend pungency to a l’Arlot 2007 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Petits Plets, otherwise dominated by ripe black raspberry. But there are also notes of vanilla and caramel from barrel of a sort that seldom stick-out in any wine from this estate. (In fact, Olivier Leriche reports having backed-off in 2007 from his usual quotient of new wood. In this instance, there is under 30%.) Like the corresponding Petit Arlot, this is still appealingly persistent if not especially intriguing, and its extra measure of tannins is well-covered by its fruit. I would plan on drinking it within 2-3 years.
Olivier Leriche reports having harvested more robust material in 2008 than in 2007, but notes that a rigorous triage for rot was needed in each instance, and that he took the precaution of significantly reducing in both vintages his usual percentage of stems and whole clusters. Harvest in 2008 was relatively rapid, and concluded October 9, but Leriche notes that its progression was determined by the extent of botrytis incursions rather than by the parcels’ ripeness. The botrytis in 2008 was more insidious, he maintained – echoing comments of several other growers – and the sorting unusually arduous, in that it frequently affected individual berries within the clusters, while triage in 2007 more often consisted of either accepting or rejecting an entire, relatively uniformly healthy or botrytis-afflicted bunch. Surprisingly, several l’Arlot 2008s – Clos du Chapeau, Clos de l’Arlot, les Suchots – finished malo already their first winter; whereas others were protracted and erratic. I tasted the final assemblages just before they were sulfured and bottled, which Leriche – in common with quite a few Burgundy vintners – argues is the best time to taste red Burgundies until after they have had several years in bottle.
Numerous agents and U.S. importers including: Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500, Classic Wine Imports, Norwood, MA, tel. (781) 352-1100, and a Daniel Johnnes Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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