The people at Hidalgo in Sanlucar have taken dry Manzanilla and have let it age until it has turned golden and mature. The bouquet is full of exotic oils, nuts and some horsehide. In the mouth, it’s a touch salty and astringent, but there are buttery, sweet undertones and great focus. And on the back end the pure flavor of mushroom and almonds is uncanny. Sleek, acidic and likely perfect with lobster or shrimp bisque.——M.S.(8/1/2003)—— 92
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