Genesis is Hogue’s upper-tier line, made in much smaller quantities than the regular wines. In effect, it tries to be a sort of reserve, selecting the best lots from the best vineyards. Here it only partially succeeds in eclipsing the much less expensive regular Riesling. This has more mass and concentration, but seems a bit heavy and fat, and loses some of the delicacy in the finish.——P.G.(9/1/2007)—— 87