The 2004 Wiltinger Gottesfuss Riesling Kabinett feinherb comes from yet another site in that famous town which history – but (as yet) not officially the V.D. P. – recognizes as one. If you don’t believe in Grand Cru Gottesfuss on the evidence of history or the extraordinary results achieved in recent vintages with ancient vines at the Van Volxem estate (and reviewed elsewhere in this report), evidence is right under your nose at Kesselstatt. This should – based on the ex-cellar price – prove to be a sensational value if you can get your hands on some of the 4,000 bottles. Scents of apricot and apricot kernel, toasted nuts, and salty minerality immediately catch your attention. Then you receive a mouthful of creamy, refined, deftly balanced, and elegantly transparent Riesling through which is delivered a subtly shifting diversity of mineral, herbal, and pit fruit messages, all of which point in the direction of first class winemaking and “first growth” dirt. Importer: P. J. Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK; tel. (918) 622-0424.