Ping grapefruit, mango, and papaya tropically inform the overly sweet, 9% alcohol Jost 2009 Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Kabinett, while underlying hints of marzipan and praline lend a confectionary aura. Soothing and sweet, yet still refreshing, what this gains fruit intensity vis-a-vis the corresponding generic Kabinett feinherb it sacrifices in terms of dynamic and mineral dimension. It will however probably outlast that wine – based on a long track record – and prove worth following for more than a decade. For an account of some recent developments at this estate, please consult my report in issue 187. Interestingly, it was the wines from their Rheingau vineyards that suffered especially from sheer ripeness and consequent high alcohol; whereas the Josts’ best 2009s from their near-monopole Hahn escaped such difficulties and performed well indeed. Incidentally, every wine of the Josts’ save for their Grosse Gewachse – and that includes their two Pinots (which I don’t usually taste) – is now closed with screwcap, and they are among several growers I spoke with who intend to bottle their Grosse Gewachse with screwcap as well, as soon as the relevant bottles are available with the embossed Arabic numeral “1” and stylized grape cluster that identifies this category.Bill Mayer Age of Riesling Selections, Imported by Valley View Wine Sales, Glen Ellen, CA; tel. (510) 549 2444; also imported by Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463
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