Domaine Lucien Boillot & Fils Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles, Cote de Nuits, France

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From a site above Brochon and neighboring to Champeaux whose manifest virtues I have already touted in reports on Domaine Dugat-Py and Domaine Louis Boillot, Pierre Boillot's 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles smells of smoky black tea, brown spices, and dark berries; offers a well-concentrated but elegant and texturally-refined palate with a dynamic interplay of chalky minerality, smoky, spicy notes, and black fruits; and finishes with savory, juicy persistence. This should prove versatile at table and well worth following for 5-7 years. Pierre Boillot (grandson of Lucien) vinified and marketed together until 2003 with his slightly older brother Louis (who now shares facilities with his wife Ghislaine Barthod, and most of the same appellations as Pierre, and on whose outstanding wines I reported in issue 170 and again in this issue). They then separated their shares of inheritance, which include equally prime acreage in both Cotes, thanks to Lucien having long ago left his family's Volnay estate (now Domaine Henri Boillot) to stake his own claim in Gevrey. My first visit to taste here convinced me that this address and Pierre Boillot's talent should be known to all Burgundy lovers. Pierre Boillot lays great store by lees enrichment, never bottling before the second spring, and then without filtration.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524