Jakob Schneider 'Magnus' Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Trocken, Nahe, Germany

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I once again, reprehensively, failed to find time for a visit to Weingut Jakob Schneider, but on the strength of a 2010 Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Trocken Magnus – coming on the heels of those 2009s, especially that vintage’s rendition of this particular bottling, on which I reported in issue 192 – it’s clear that young Jakob Schneider is striving for and gradually attaining excellence of a sort that at this address, following the death of his and this estate’s namesake, essentially leapfrogged two generations (to whom I mean no disrespect with that remark, and one of whom I personally got to know well). That’s important, good news indeed, given the Schneiders’ choice holdings and the fact that they farm the second-largest share of the Hermannshohle. (In fact, they own by far the largest share, but Donnhoff’s recent deal with Gut Hermannsberg – for details of which consult the introduction to my report on the latter estate in issue 192 – now makes him the largest farmer.) Young Jakob Schneiders’ prestige (“Magnus”) bottling of dry Hermannshohle delivers layers of distilled and fresh red berries and pit fruit; citrus; and nut oils, accented by wet stone and crystalline mineral notes and well-integrated fruit pit and herbal piquancy. Voluminous and firm yet persistently juicy and not at all alcoholically freighted, this should be worth following for at least another half dozen years. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300