Always a joy to drink, the latest vintage of DDO’s Arthur combines richness and elegance in a seamless and fascinating whole. Cucumber and melon, apple and pear fruit is the base, which expands into wet stone and mineral, then butter cookie. It’s a one-wine seminar in how to make great Chardonnay, expressing the acid-driven elegance of Burgundy with some of the lushness of New World grapes. Tasted even better on the second day.——P.G.(4/1/2009)—— 91