The Vincent Dauvissat 2011 Chablis Sechet delivers a striking sense of lift and transparency allied to infectious juiciness. Succulent and refreshing grapefruit, lime and yellow plum are wreathed in buddleia and high-toned herbal extracts, then mingled on a buoyant (almost delicate) and silken-textured palate with the saline-sweet savor of raw scallop. The saliva-inducing, umami-rich animal aspects are perfectly complemented by almost infinite juiciness of citrus and pit fruits that are transparent to seductively floral and shimmeringly crystalline-mineral nuances. This long-finishing beauty should not be missed now, in its youth, but I imagine it will continue to cast its spell through at least 2018.
Vincent Dauvissat emphasizes the positive roll of rain in September, 2012: "it permitted fruit maturation to continue, and ameliorated acidity." The most vexing parts of the vintage, as he perceives it, were frost and mildew, and he has the low yields to show for the battle with them. Poor flowering, he acknowledges, had its positive sides in engendering loose, rot-resistant clusters and helping to insure that even in those vineyards not frosted, the crop was able to thoroughly ripen. Dauvissat was quick to point out that when it came to his two grand crus, 2011 represented another short crop, because those sites bloomed during a period of perturbing weather; whereas conditions turned favorable in the week that followed, in time for flowering in his premier cru and village-level sites. Harvest dates here were pretty typical: the first half of September in 2011, and the last week of September and first few days of October in 2012. Finished alcohols in 2012 range from 12.5%-13%; and a half a degree lower in 2011. Like me, Vincent Dauvissat thinks that many observers are misled by the youthfully generous and lightweight character of the 2011s into a false belief that they won't be worth cellaring. (That being noted, I hasten to add - chastised by prematurely oxidized bottles, including even a few from his hand - that my notion of felicitous aging involves a shorter temporal horizon than his.)
Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802 (Under the -Dauvissat-Camus- label, certain of these wines are also imported by Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; tel. (781) 352 1100.)
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