A blockbuster effort that performed significantly better than it did last year when it was exhibiting some reduction is the 2010 St.-Joseph Francois de Tournon. This wine, which was so tight and difficult to evaluate last year, is brilliant. A dense purple color is followed by notes of graphite, pen ink, blackberries and blueberries, and hints of raspberries, smoke and subtle oak. This full-bodied, classic, monumental St.-Joseph was aged completely in small barrels. The good news is that 1,500 cases are just hitting the market. My instincts suggest 1-2 years of bottle age will be beneficial, and it is capable of lasting 15 or more years. Don’t miss it!
Over the last 10-15 years, Delas Freres, which had muddled along with no great distinction for many years, has hit full stride under the ownership of the Louis Roederer-Deutz Champagne firm and the management of Jacques Grange, who continues to push the envelope of quality for both the Northern and Southern Rhone selections. The top single vineyard wines are world class in every sense, often flirting with perfection. Moreover, readers should realize this is also an impressive source for value. Delas’s top St.-Joseph cuvee comes from the hillside vineyards overlooking the small commune of St.-Jean de Muzols. The Delas firm owns 25 acres in Hermitage from which they make a basic cuvee, called Domaine des Tourettes, and, in the greatest vintages, a luxury cuvee, Les Bessards, which comes entirely from the great lieu-dit of the same name. Delas has long had a reputation for making outstanding Condrieu, of which he makes two cuvees.
Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000
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