Headily floral lily and heliotrope notes mark the nose of the 2007 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Spatlese A.P. #7, with lime, peach, fresh cherry, and nut oils following on the palate. At a mere 7.5% alcohol, this performs the feat familiar chez Zilliken of balancing hugely high residual sugar against efficacious acids and harboring palpable density while seeming delicate. This is infectiously juicy, lip-smacking, bright, and penetrating in length, with salt and stone nuances in the finish as well as a positive sense of fruit skin tartness adding to its sense of invigoration. Expect it to perform brilliantly for the better part of two decades.
It might seem hard to believe that Hanno Zilliken could once again out-performed a vintage in the way that he did 2005 and 2006. But his having designated an unprecedented four different wines of the 2007 vintage as auction offerings certainly speaks to his confidence – well-founded, I would say – in the quality of this collection’s top end. The vintage’s “Riesling Butterfly” – stemming largely from Saarburg’s Antoniousbrunnen and Bergschlosschen vineyards (behind the Rausch, and overlooking a tiny Saar tributary) and in only small measure from the Rausch and Bockstein – was reviewed in issue 184 and remains lovely, if at present less generous than there-described. No off-dry generic estate Riesling was bottled this vintage, and with 2008 Zilliken will be seen to have made other changes in the lower half of his price list.
Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA 800 596 9463