Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Spatlese, Mosel, Germany

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Pink grapefruit and black currant are back on the menu in the nose as well as on the palate of Kesselstatt’s 2007 Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Spatlese, a rather candied but flatteringly creamy as well as highly-recognizable rendition of its site. This is even more delicate than the corresponding Kabinett, but lacks its cut, refreshment, or energy and a glance at its analysis confirms relatively low acidity by Mosel or vintage standards. It should be at least a 15 year keeper. A protracted harvest is almost bound to be especially beneficial for an estate with such enormous and widely-scattered vine acreage as that of von Kesselstatt. The acidity in this year’s collection is almost uniformly ripe, and often noticeably low. As usual, a certain austerity accrues to a fair share of Kesslestatt’s many trocken Rieslings (wines from whose labels the last vestiges of Pradikat designations have now disappeared), but happily, alcoholic heat was scarcely a problem here this year. Interestingly, the Saar wines among these were generally especially successful regardless of style. Annegret Reh’s plan in the Kabinett segment, incidentally, is to eventually eliminate the redundancy of having both feinherb (successors to former halbtrocken) and unabashedly sweet bottlings from a single site, but instead work in the direction of merely discreet – i.e. feinherb – sweetness for most of the estate’s Kabinetts. In a sweet style, the Kesselstatt Kabinetts have consistently represented excellent values with ready market-availability, whereas few of the drier Kabinetts (and virtually none of the estate’s trocken Rieslings) seem to make it to the U.S.Various importers including: P. J. Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK; tel (918) 622-0424.